Acne, blackheads, breakouts, and clogged pores rank pretty high amongst our most-despised skin-care terms. On the flip side, a phrase like the best salicylic acid products is near the top. After all, salicylic acid maintains a consistent presence in ingredients lists for its ability to dissolve dead, pore-clogging skin tissue, speed up cell turnover, reduce the chances of future breakouts forming, and even soothe/treat conditions like scalp psoriasis.
Allow Yunyoung Claire Chang, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, to break it down for you. “Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble beta hydroxy acid (or BHA) that goes deep into the pores to clear out dirt, oil, and other impurities,” she explains. “It exfoliates and reduces clogged pores, leading to clearer and brighter skin.” Salicylic acid also plays an important role in the acne-healing process (both in the short and long term), acting as “an anti-inflammatory ingredient that helps red, inflamed pimples and pustules go away faster,” Naissan O. Wesley, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles, previously said.
Now, you might be wondering about the differences between alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acid and their counterparts, BHAs. “Generally, oil-soluble ingredients [like salicylic acid] penetrate through the lipid layers between the skin cells more readily,” New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Sejal Shah previously explained to Allure. In comparison, their water-soluble counterparts (AHAs) stick to the skin’s surface.
That’s also why the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has approved a higher maximum percent for over-the-counter (OTC) products for alpha hydroxy acids — 10 percent for leave-on products and 30 percent for rinse-off treatments — but, more on that in the next section.
It’s important not to overdo the salicylic acid-spiked treatments, especially for those with dry, sensitive, and generally irritable skin. “I recommend starting with a lower concentration of salicylic acid, like 0.5 or 1 percent, to see if you tolerate it before jumping to 2 percent [the maximum amount the FDA allows in OTC products],” Dr. Chang tells us. She also endorses kicking off with salicylic acid once a day or once every other day and monitoring your skin — before you work your way up to twice daily (morning and night).
Additionally, you have to consider the products you’re pairing with salicylic acid. While you should be using moisturizer and especially sunscreen on a daily basis anyway, both products are vital in combating potential irritation associated with the acid. “I recommend using [salicylic acid] alongside skin-repairing and soothing moisturizers,” Dr. Chang says, highlighting those formulated with barrier-repairing ceramides and calming ingredients like niacinamide, allantoin, Centella asiatica (also know as cica), and aloe. Tracy Evans, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and medical director at Pacific Skin and Cosmetic Dermatology in San Francisco, California, agrees and calls out fragrance-free, oil-free moisturizers like EltaMD PM Therapy Facial Moisturizer and CeraVe PM Facial Moisturizer.
Dr. Chang strongly advocates for sun protection after using any exfoliant, not just salicylic acid. “While salicylic acid may not directly increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun, it’s always important to protect your freshly exfoliated skin from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation,” she tells us.
Like we already touched upon, Dr. Chang confirms that potential side effects include skin tingling, stinging, itching, redness, peeling, and irritation. Salicylic acid is a definite no-no for pregnant or breastfeeding women, as well. When it comes to combining salicylic acid and alpha hydroxy acids, just be cautious of excess dryness or irritation that may occur. As with any skin-care product, dermatologists like Dr. Chang recommend performing a spot test before going all-in. Better safe than sorry (and red all over), as they say.
Ahead, read about 17 of the best salicylic acid serums, toners, and cleansers on the market, as recommended by dermatologists and Allure editors.